Tomorrow morning I leave the charming and historical town of Sarlat-la-Canéda with its wonderful 15th and 16th century houses and take the early bus north-west to Périgueux, the heart of Périgord Vert.
As it was a warm day I decided to take a stroll along the shaded banks of Pèrigueux's river, the Isle, which itself is a tributary of the mighty Dordogne. On the outskirts of Périgueux, as I was about to descend to the river, I came across quite a remarkable construction, a medieval outpost. This imposing wooden edifice was called the "Eschif de Creyssac" and was built in 1347. Before Pèrigueux became a modern town it was known as the village of Puy-Sainte-Front, named after the usual suspect. Puy means a volcanic hill and this outpost straddled its fortifications and served as a look-out post between the village and the river. From the riverside one also has a splendid visage of the domes and cones of the Byzantine Cathédrale-Ste-Front.
I had a comfortable flight over to Paris and enjoyed the train rides to Bergerac, particularly the local express from Bordeaux, which passed many verdant vineyards such as the famous Saint-Émilon on the way. Bergerc is the largest town in the Nouvelle-Aqitaine region and sits on the wide, slowly flowing Dordogne river. I spent my first day strolling around the ancient town with its lovely old buildings and narrow streets. Each town in France invariably has a spectacular church and the rather austere Neo-Gothic Eglise Notre-Dame with its 60 metre tall bell tower and spire was no exception. More tomorrow.
Tomorrow I depart Périgueux with its medieval houses and narrow cobbled lanes and take the train due east to Brive-la-Gaillarde. I finished my stay in Périgueux with a visit to the Gallo-Roman Museum. This outstanding museum is built around the remains of a grand 1st century AD villa in which there were some 60 rooms with collonnaded walkways. The remnants of nautical murals adorned the walls and in the central courtyard stood an imposing statue of the god, Jupiter.
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