Tomorrow morning I leave the charming and historical town of Sarlat-la-Canéda with its wonderful 15th and 16th century houses and take the early bus north-west to Périgueux, the heart of Périgord Vert.
As it was a warm day I decided to take a stroll along the shaded banks of Pèrigueux's river, the Isle, which itself is a tributary of the mighty Dordogne. On the outskirts of Périgueux, as I was about to descend to the river, I came across quite a remarkable construction, a medieval outpost. This imposing wooden edifice was called the "Eschif de Creyssac" and was built in 1347. Before Pèrigueux became a modern town it was known as the village of Puy-Sainte-Front, named after the usual suspect. Puy means a volcanic hill and this outpost straddled its fortifications and served as a look-out post between the village and the river. From the riverside one also has a splendid visage of the domes and cones of the Byzantine Cathédrale-Ste-Front.
My first stop today was the 15th century Gothic Collégiale Ste-Waudru. This monumental and magnificent church with its superb set of gargoyles was named after Saint Waudru, a virtuous 7th century nun who founded a small religious community in Mons. Here's a 15th century carving of her with her two daughters in wood polychrome. The shrine containing Ste Waudru's relics is suspended above the altar. Each year on the weekend of Trinity Sunday Mons holds the Festival of the Ducasse de Mons or Doudou, where the casket containing the remains of Ste Waudru is placed in a golden Louis XV1 wooden carriage called the "Car d'Or and paraded around town, escorted by hundreds of costumed guardians. After Ste-Waudru's romp around the Grand-Place the Car d'Or is pushed back up the hill to the Church in one mighty effort by the enormous crowd. After the saint's relics are safely back in her shrine chaos erupts n the Grand-Place with a battle battle between St George the chi...
On my penultimate day in Belgium I headed for Tournai, close to the frontier with France as I was keen to see its seminal cathedral. However, when I arrived I found there were massive renovations in place both inside and out, but it is still worth mentioning a few facts about the Cathedral. It is a stirring amalgamation of Romanesque and Gothic styles with five distinctive towers. Inside intricately carved capitals embellish its columns. In front of the altar there is a superb marble rood screen that depicts biblical events. There are also some wonderful 16th century stained glass windows and a glorious painting by Rubens of the "Delivery of Souls from Purgatory ". Nearby was the Belfry, which dates back to 1188. I climbed its 257 stairs for a panoramic view of Tournai. Here are some photos of its carillon and the Cathedral. My last stop was the Pont des Trous, which spans the River l'Escaut and is the only surviving part of Tournai's medieval ramparts. Tomorrow I le...
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