French Sojourn

As it was a warm day I decided to take a stroll along the shaded banks of Pèrigueux's river, the Isle, which itself is a tributary of the mighty Dordogne. On the outskirts of Périgueux, as I was about to descend to the river, I came across quite a remarkable construction, a medieval outpost. This imposing wooden edifice was called the "Eschif de Creyssac" and was built in 1347. Before Pèrigueux became a modern town it was known as the village of Puy-Sainte-Front, named after the usual suspect. Puy means a volcanic hill and this outpost straddled its fortifications and served as a look-out post between the village and the river. From the riverside one also has a splendid visage of the domes and cones of the Byzantine Cathédrale-Ste-Front.

Today is market day in Périgueux and I spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering arond its varied stalls. The town has an extensive Roman history, which dates to the 1st century BC. This imposing tower, the Tour de Vésone,was dedicated to the eponymous goddess of water and has a height of 25 metres with a 17 metre diameter. The gaping breech in the Tower is said to have been created when St Front, who converted the local population to Christianity in the 4th century, exorcised the pagan gods from the edifice.

The trip by bus from Sarlat to Périgueux over a mountain range and through the verdant countryside and lush woodland of Périgord Vert was most enjoyable. Périgueux is the capital of the Dordogne region and I shall look forward to exploring this attractive market town. Today I took the opportunity to visit the town's 13th church, the Cathédrale Ste Front, dedicated to St Front, who evangelized the Périgord district. The Cathedral is an important stage on the Way of St James for pilgrims following the routes of Santiago de Compostela. With its domes and cones it is one of the most distinctive Byzantine churches in France and was modelled on the San Marco church in Venice. Tje bells of St Front were added in 1847 and are made up of 7 peals of bells and 10 fixed bells. A fascinating sight inside was the beautifully carved Baroque reredos, a large decorative altarpiece behind the altar. It depicted the empty tomb of Mary at its base. Half way up it showed the Virgin ascending up

Tomorrow morning I leave the charming and historical town of Sarlat-la-Canéda with its wonderful 15th and 16th century houses and take the early bus north-west to Périgueux, the heart of Périgord Vert.

It was Saturday and Market Day at Sarlat and I passed a pleasant couple of hours wandering around the various market stalls and having a chat with some of the stallholders. In the afternoon I took myself to the Manoir de Gisson, an impressive building with a hexagonal tower and stone-mullion windows dating back to the 13th century. The Gisson family were noblemen and famously served as Consuls in charge of Sarlat's public order. The beautifully crafted furniture inside, mostly walnut, dated from medieval times to the 17th century. It was a rare chance to see inside a noble house and climb a lovely circular stone staircase.

Every day around midi when it becomes time for le déjeuner I wander away from the centre ville to the back streets and lanes in search of a friendly family bistro hidden away. Today I found the Guele et Gosier (Snout and Gullet) restaurant. For an entrée I had Foie Gras mi-cuit et effiloché de Jarret de Veau (see photo) and for le Plat Principal I ordered Anchaud Périgourdin (Cochon confit dans la grasse de Canard). I accompanied this with a verre de Bergerac blanc and finished with a tart lemon sorbet and an expresso. As you can see I had a bon appétit.

My friend, la belle Kti, drove me from Bergerac to Sarlat and the countryside changed dramatically. The area around Bergerac is known as Périgord Pourpre thanks to its abundant wine production the vines of which cloak the slopes of the lower Dordogne Valley. As we headed further east we entered Périgord Noir, named for its evergreen oaks with their dark, dense foliage. We passed pretty villages and tiny bourgs (hamlets) while high above fortresses and castles looked down on the Dordogne. It was a most picturesque drive. Sarlat-la-Canéda itself dates back to the late eight century when Benedictine monks established an abbey and I shall look forward to exploring its ancient narrow lanes and courtyards. I am staying in a petite studio at the top of an old stone edifice. I took a photo of the lane leading up to the studio and also a view of the nearby roofs from my garret window.

Today I hired a car and drove to two nearby bastides, Eymet and Issigeac. Eymet, which was founded in 1270  by King Louis 1X's brother, Alphonse dr Poitiers, was part icularly interesting with its medieval houses, narrow streets and striking fortification. Issigeac was similiar with some really striking houses, which are lived in today. Tomorrow I depart Bergerac and head further east to Sarlat-la-Canéda.

Today I paid a visit to Ste-Foy-la-Grande, one of Aquitaine's original bastides. A bastide is a fortified medieval town built during the 13th and 14th centuries. I picked up a map from the Office de Tourisme and had a walk around the town, admiring its fine timbered medieval houses, the most grandiose of which was the Office de Tourisme itself with its stunning corner tower. Ste-Foy-la-Grande is a pilgrim stop on the route to Santiago de Compostella and indeed I came across a couple of these intrepid pilgrims when I called in at the local church, also called the Église Notre-Dame. This mid 17th century église has a beautifully proportioned pure Gothic interior. I took a photo of its compact organ, flanked on either side by tall, slender pillars reaching upwards to its fine rib-vaulted ceiling. I finished my visit with a stroll along the banks of the ubiquitous Dordogne.

Bergerac owes its existence and prosperity to the Dordogne River, where from the 12th century it controlled the burgeoning wine trade from the Périgord hinterland to Bordeaux for further export. This wine was transported in barges called gabarres. Today I took a petit voyage in one of these flat bottomed gabarres for an excursion along the Dordogne. Away from Bergerac thick foliage adorned the river banks and we passed through a natural bird sanctuary of kites, herons and kingfishers along with swans and ducks. It was a very pleasant and relaxing diversion. On disembarking I took a stroll across the ancient bridge, which spans the Dordogne.

Yesterday I did something unusual for me. I went to Mass! Sunday masses in France are vibrant affairs with thunderous organ music and angelic choral singing. After this spectacle I headed to Bergerac's unique Tobacco Museum, which is housed. in a stunning 17th century mansion and is a fine example of Renaissance classical architecture. The museum told an interesting history of the origins of tobacco from pre-Columbian America, where the Amerindian civilization used it in initiation rites and as a medicine. It arrived in Europe around 1650 and the museum displayed an impressive collection of pipes, tobacco jars and elaborately decorated snuff boxes. Well worth a visit!

Every country has its markets but none are as vibrant as "farmers' markets" in France. Here they are not only a way of life, but a social occasion as well as the stall holders seem to have more intent on having a conversation than selling their produce. There are an array of traditional fruit and vegetables straight from the farm as well as an infinite variety of cheeses and bread along with pre-loved clothing and bric-a-brac. Food markets here are an integral part of France's famed tradition of good eating and give one a truly authentic experience of French provincial life. At the market I wss delighted to be entertained by a procession of rather elderly minstrals wearing the traditional garb of an earlier era and marching from square to square playing their musical instruments before breaking into enthusiastic folk dancing. Another Dordogne town I shall soon be visiting is Périgueux, the heart of French truffle and foie-grss country, and I shall look forward

I forgot to mention that the Église Notre-Dame was built in 1863 and in 1865 four enormous bells were placed in the Belfry. The largest was called (and la petite Jasmine will love this) "Mary Immaculate" and weighed a mere 2,383 kgs. Today I went to the Château Monbazillac with my friend la belle Kti. This magnificent vinyard with some 5 hectares of grounds produces a prestigious sweet white desert wine and has stunning views of Bergerac and the Dordogne valley from its lofted height. The grapes are picked once they are over-ripe and thus have a high sugar content thanks to the "botrytis cinerea" or noble rot, a fungus that attacks the grapes in the autumn. The Château dates back to around 1550 and was a Protestant stronghold, which fortunately remained unscathed during the iconoclastic Wars of Religion  and the French Revolution periods. Monbazillac has everything one would want in a château, such as towers, a parapet walk, battlements, cannons and of course,

I had a comfortable flight over to Paris and enjoyed the train rides to Bergerac, particularly the local express from Bordeaux, which passed many verdant vineyards such as the famous Saint-Émilon on the way. Bergerc is the largest town in the Nouvelle-Aqitaine region and sits on the wide, slowly flowing Dordogne river. I spent my first day strolling around the ancient town with its lovely old buildings and narrow streets. Each town in France invariably has a spectacular church and the rather austere Neo-Gothic Eglise Notre-Dame with its 60 metre tall bell tower and spire was no exception. More tomorrow.